Palace hotels and glossy designer boutiques have made St Moritz a favourite of the rich and famous, but clusters of snow-weathered chalets and winding roads mean it has retained its mountain-village charm. On a hillside, the Carlton Hotel offers spectacular Engadin valley views. Its 60 junior rooms and suites are sumptuous (every one is different) and come with butler service. There is a luxurious spa and an indoor pool that leads out to a steaming pool with magical views of the mountains. Dine like Russian royalty in the elegantly grand Romanoff, or try the more informal Tschinè. The service is impeccable, but the staff are refreshingly unstuffy. St Moritz is known for its mountain restaurants. Try the rustic-chic El Paradiso (a favourite of Boris Becker) and Mathis, where even handbag dogs get silver service. Wow factor: The hotel terrace is a stylish suntrap with lake views. Flight time: One hour 45 minutes (then three and a half hours by train). Go: Three nights half board in a Junior Suite from £1,740 ( Swiss (0845 601 0956; flies to Zurich from £113 return; Swiss Transfer train tickets from £79 return (from