Stay at this cosy 20-room hotel in the Palermo Hollywood neighbourhood for its chic yet unpretentious Shoreditch/Brooklyn urban vibe.

There's a lovely garden at the back, partially overgrown with wild flowers, and a small pool, which is very welcome in summer. Bedrooms combine pretty '20s wallpaper, concrete, and vintage Scandinavian furniture, and some have a two-person Jacuzzi and balcony.

Breakfast is served till 11am every day, which is handy if you've been out late, because Porteños, as natives are called, wouldn't think of eating before 10pm or going to a bar before midnight. Home is owned by an English record producer, Tom, and his Argentine wife, Patricia, who are often around to offer advice on the latest drinking holes (try Omm for classic cocktails, just five minutes' stroll away, or new speakeasy Frank's, also nearby) and authentic, untouristy tango classes and dances, such as La Viruta at the Armenian Cultural Centre.

WOW FACTOR The must-check-into room is the Poolside Suite - very private, with its own terrace and sunloungers.

GO A double room costs from £125 per night, per person B&B; BA return flights from Heathrow start at £915